Wolcott Garden Treasures
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Common Problems
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Hydrangeas - Blooming
Hydrangeas set their buds in the fall in preparation for blooming in the spring or summer, depending on the variety. However, in this climate, we often have a brief January thaw that can trick the buds into starting to open, which will inevitably stunt the plant's ability to bloom in the correct season. If you run into this problem, try loosely wrapping the plant in burlap before the heavy frost, leaving the top open for sun, to protect throughout the winter. It doesn't always work, but it's a good start! Also, remember that you should only prune your hydrangeas after the blooms have died, but before the frost. Pruning during the wrong stage of development can also stunt the blooming. The exception here is the "Endless Summer" variety, which can be pruned any time of year because it blooms on new and old wood.
Hydrangeas - Falling
Especially as young plants, hydrangeas are prone to falling after a heavy rain (the blooms will droop to the ground). To fix this or prevent it, try using peony cages around the plant to hold the stems & blooms upright.
Mildew, Powdery Mildew, Summer Fungus
Some plants, including lilacs, volcano phlox and roses, are very susceptible to mildew. In late July or August you'll notice that your plants are losing leaves and a white powdery substance can be seen along the stems and leaves. While the fungus will cause the leaves to fall off and can make the plant generally unattractive, it will not kill or harm the plant and new growth will still occur. To treat or prevent this mildew, we suggest Fung-onil or Orchard Spray by Bonide. Fung-onil is a multi-purpose fungicide and the Orchard Spray is a fungicide and insecticide that is specially formulated for food bearing plants. Neither product poses a threat to beneficial bees, but the Orchard Spray should not be used on or near sulfur-sensitive As a preventative measure, spray the whole plant once every two weeks (not right before or after rain if you can help it), and as a treatment, spray once a week for two weeks, then once every two weeks thereafter. If you're purchasing new lilacs, roses or volcano phlox, consider planting them in areas with plenty of ventilation (i.e., not in the corner of your house or in between other tall or thick plants); this will help keep them free from fungus.
Mulch - Color Fade
Most mulches are dyed using a very concentrated, non-toxic dye, much like food color. Some of this color may run after a soaking rain, but the sun will also bleach the color throughout the season. There's really nothing anyone can do about this natural occurrence. You can either get a little more mulch toward the end of the season to spruce up the top layer, or try using a pitch fork to "fluff" the material and bring the the more color saturated lower layers to the top.
Mulch - Fungus
Mulch naturally retains water and decomposes over time, which makes it the perfect place for mushrooms to grow! Don't worry if you start seeing mushrooms popping up in your flower beds. It's completely normal and safe (obviously you don't want to eat them, but don't get startled by the color or aroma, which can be quite interesting). Just pluck them out and toss them in the garbage.
Mums - Splitting & Falling
Fully-bloomed mums can hold so much water after a soaking rain that the stems will sometime break under the weight. Try laying your mums on their side during particularly wet or severe weather; let them dry for a day or so before you put them right-side-up again and you can usually avoid too much damage. If your stems do split and fall, try tying rope around the entire plant toward the roots to pull the bouquet upright - don't use twine or wire as it'll cut the stems.
Rusting of White Flowers
White and other very light flowers can fall victim to a mildew or fungus that will turn the petals a rusty color. This should not be confused with the drying and browning of the edge of the petals that naturally occurs as the bloom is dying. Rose Rx from Bonide is a great, organic product that will kill the fungus. Apply once a week for two weeks, then every two weeks thereafter to kill the fungus and prevent it from recurring.
Hydrangeas set their buds in the fall in preparation for blooming in the spring or summer, depending on the variety. However, in this climate, we often have a brief January thaw that can trick the buds into starting to open, which will inevitably stunt the plant's ability to bloom in the correct season. If you run into this problem, try loosely wrapping the plant in burlap before the heavy frost, leaving the top open for sun, to protect throughout the winter. It doesn't always work, but it's a good start! Also, remember that you should only prune your hydrangeas after the blooms have died, but before the frost. Pruning during the wrong stage of development can also stunt the blooming. The exception here is the "Endless Summer" variety, which can be pruned any time of year because it blooms on new and old wood.
Hydrangeas - Falling
Especially as young plants, hydrangeas are prone to falling after a heavy rain (the blooms will droop to the ground). To fix this or prevent it, try using peony cages around the plant to hold the stems & blooms upright.
Mildew, Powdery Mildew, Summer Fungus
Some plants, including lilacs, volcano phlox and roses, are very susceptible to mildew. In late July or August you'll notice that your plants are losing leaves and a white powdery substance can be seen along the stems and leaves. While the fungus will cause the leaves to fall off and can make the plant generally unattractive, it will not kill or harm the plant and new growth will still occur. To treat or prevent this mildew, we suggest Fung-onil or Orchard Spray by Bonide. Fung-onil is a multi-purpose fungicide and the Orchard Spray is a fungicide and insecticide that is specially formulated for food bearing plants. Neither product poses a threat to beneficial bees, but the Orchard Spray should not be used on or near sulfur-sensitive As a preventative measure, spray the whole plant once every two weeks (not right before or after rain if you can help it), and as a treatment, spray once a week for two weeks, then once every two weeks thereafter. If you're purchasing new lilacs, roses or volcano phlox, consider planting them in areas with plenty of ventilation (i.e., not in the corner of your house or in between other tall or thick plants); this will help keep them free from fungus.
Mulch - Color Fade
Most mulches are dyed using a very concentrated, non-toxic dye, much like food color. Some of this color may run after a soaking rain, but the sun will also bleach the color throughout the season. There's really nothing anyone can do about this natural occurrence. You can either get a little more mulch toward the end of the season to spruce up the top layer, or try using a pitch fork to "fluff" the material and bring the the more color saturated lower layers to the top.
Mulch - Fungus
Mulch naturally retains water and decomposes over time, which makes it the perfect place for mushrooms to grow! Don't worry if you start seeing mushrooms popping up in your flower beds. It's completely normal and safe (obviously you don't want to eat them, but don't get startled by the color or aroma, which can be quite interesting). Just pluck them out and toss them in the garbage.
Mums - Splitting & Falling
Fully-bloomed mums can hold so much water after a soaking rain that the stems will sometime break under the weight. Try laying your mums on their side during particularly wet or severe weather; let them dry for a day or so before you put them right-side-up again and you can usually avoid too much damage. If your stems do split and fall, try tying rope around the entire plant toward the roots to pull the bouquet upright - don't use twine or wire as it'll cut the stems.
Rusting of White Flowers
White and other very light flowers can fall victim to a mildew or fungus that will turn the petals a rusty color. This should not be confused with the drying and browning of the edge of the petals that naturally occurs as the bloom is dying. Rose Rx from Bonide is a great, organic product that will kill the fungus. Apply once a week for two weeks, then every two weeks thereafter to kill the fungus and prevent it from recurring.
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